![]() 950 is a high-concentration alloy that includes ruthenium for strength and shine. ![]() Platinum: Rolex uses 950 platinum exclusively (and sparingly). White Gold 18k: Rolex’s white gold seems to radiate light. Yellow Gold 18k: This alloy is proprietary, trusted, and has an iconic hue. RLX Titanium: Rolex uses a Grade 5 titanium alloy which it says is specially selected, requires special dedicated production processes, and which can be finished "according to the brand's specifications."Įverose Gold 18k: By adding copper and silver to its formula, Rolex achieves its uniquely warm rose gold. Oystersteel: As part of the 904L family of steel, Oystersteel can achieve the corrosion resistance and high polish of precious metals. Discounting a number of esoteric materials used specifically in Rolex movements, nearly all Rolex watches are made from just nine materials. Rolex formulates and produces most of its materials in-house. Originally developed for commercial saturation divers who found that the crystals on their watches were popping off in decompression chambers as the pressure within the watch equalized to that of the outer environment. Helium Escape Valve (HEV): Originally co-developed by Rolex and Doxa, this is a small, spring-loaded one-way valve that is integrated into a watch case and allows helium and other gasses to escape the watch as a SCUBA diver ascends following a dive to great depths. Originally part of the crystal on early plexiglass models, the Cyclops later became an added piece of glass on sapphire crystal-equipped models that was glued to the main crystal. “Oyster” remains the essential metaphor for Rolex, and it shows up in a number of phrases, model names, and neologisms.Ĭyclops: Patented by Rolex in the early 1950s, this is a magnifying device that makes the date appear larger. Oyster: This is the name that Rolex’s founder, Hans Wilsdorf, gave to the earliest waterproof watches from the 1920s. For an in-depth breakdown of every Rolex watch model currently produced, click here. This story is part II of a two-part series, The Complete Guide to Rolex. Get a loose grip on the basic building blocks, and the entire Rolex oeuvre becomes surprisingly simple to navigate. Rolex makes relatively uncomplicated movements, formulates five case alloys, offers five types of bracelet, two types of clasp, a handful of bezels, some dial variations, and with just these components the Crown builds out its entire catalog. If we drop the year-to-year analysis, however, and stick to the current offerings, the Rolex catalog is actually quite easy to understand. Indeed, Rolex experts tend toward detailed taxonomies of minuscule modifications, and Rolex does indeed introduce these incremental annual updates to the point where many modifications seem more mythical than material. Deciphering the nuances that distinguish, say, a 1970 Rolex Submariner from a 1980 version can require the sharp eye of a forensic analyst and the patience of a research librarian.
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